Shower claddings and showers hoses!

Pugwash

Active Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2017
Location
South Lincolnshire
Riddle me this: How should I have fitted the elbow joint for the shower outlet? There was a nut to tighten on the back and then the hose to screw on. I chopped a big enough hole to fit my arm in. Luckily this is a space behind the bedroom door pocket and there was room to fiddle!
I'll run the pump again tomorrow and check it was all tight enough. I don't fancy fixing this once the rest of the cladding is on.
 

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Deleted member

Guest
The good news is that you probably will never know if you do get a slight dribble!!! I think that I would have cut down the naughty verticle screw before risking MY arm in that hole. Geoff. ;););)
 
D

Deleted member 2

Guest
No dribble. One of the nice things about a pressurised pump system is knowing when it all goes quiet, no water is leaking.
That is exactly what I thought when I fitted and then tested my system and so it continued for a couple of weeks static out on the drive, however I then went for my very first trial night away wild camping overlooking the spectacular Lake Vyrnwy which was then only a relative miles from my Welsh home. Obviously the slight movements of the pipes caused several of the joints going to the shower and from the pump to spring leaks!!!!!!!!!!!

So Pugwash, unless your joints are virtually fail safe snap/click speedfit joints or similar (which mine weren't), you can never be absolutely certain they will remain leak free, which is one of the main reasons I decided not to fit any water pipework in my conversion which wasn't always accessible.

Fingers crossed.

Phil
 

Kermavio

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 8, 2016
Location
Cléguérec, France
As you drive and go over bumps, the cladding will flex very slightly - making a cacophony of squeeks :eek:. To get round this (and to lessen the likelihood of leaks), join the T&G together with liberal amounts of adhesive, such as Stixall, so that they cannot move against one another.
 

VanNV

Active Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2017
As you drive and go over bumps, the cladding will flex very slightly - making a cacophony of squeeks :eek:. To get round this (and to lessen the likelihood of leaks), join the T&G together with liberal amounts of adhesive, such as Stixall, so that they cannot move against one another.
Wish I could try that on my back doors - they are about the only thing I can hear after sound-proofing!

Rob
 
D

Deleted member 2

Guest
Wish I could try that on my back doors - they are about the only thing I can hear after sound-proofing!

Rob
Then Rob, you need to adjust the top and bottom (things) plates that help secure the doors and keep them in place as well as possibly moving the catches slightly further so that the door needs somewhat more of a harder push to shut them.
My 'Millie' has 120,000 + miles under her previously unloved belt, but now there isn't a rattle or a squeak to hear.
Phil
 

VanNV

Active Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2017
Interesting - thanks Phil! I had never even contemplated whether they were adjustable.

To be quite honest they aren't too bad but I would prefer them to be completely silent. I had just thought about slapping a bit of waterproof grease on them (c:
 

Pugwash

Active Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2017
Location
South Lincolnshire
My cab is seperate from the rear so the noise won't be a problem. Regarding the pipework, the only one that is concealed is a 12mm hose with a VERY tight pipe clip on it. It's going nowhere. If I to need to get at it, I'll need to employ a child with long arms.

This is the T&G I bought:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gloss-White-Bathroom-Cladding-Shower-Wet-Wall-Panels-PVC-Ceiling/381212337468

I also got some internal corners:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5mm-Trims-of-End-Caps-Internals-Trims-Externals-Trims-H-Trims-Coving-Trims/252873863455
 

vicdicdoc

Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2018
Location
Cheshire/Wales border
[QUOTE="Buzzy Beans, post: 18708,
snap/click speedfit joints
Phil[/QUOTE]

Are these 'speedfit' joints secure & water tight ? I was going to use soldered or compression joints with copper piping but if 'speedfit' is ok it'll save my the weight of copper pipework
 

misterg

Active Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Location
North Wales
Yes and yes - based on household plumbing experience. Try to keep to one system if you can (e.g. John Guest - "JG" or Whale). Although many parts are nominally interchangeable one occasionally runs into issues where things don't work quite as they should when mixing brands.
 

vicdicdoc

Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2018
Location
Cheshire/Wales border
Ok, John Guest piping it'll be, does it need adhesive or plastic weld applied to make it drip proof ? I'm a sceptic and don't want a joint to blow under pressure from the water pump
 

JayKay

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2018
Ok, John Guest piping it'll be, does it need adhesive or plastic weld applied to make it drip proof ? I'm a sceptic and don't want a joint to blow under pressure from the water pump
I did my full house in the speedfit type pipework, not a single leak.
 

Darcar

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 12, 2016
Location
East Devon
I’d second John guest pipe and fittings, we’ve run all our plumbing in 15mm standard household gear. It’s very cheap easy to work with and foolproof!
Darcar
 

RayF

Member
Joined
May 9, 2017
Location
Norfolk NR14 7..
The seal is made with an 'O' ring on the outside of the pipe. So it is good practice to treat the coil or lengths of pipe with care as significant scratches on the pipe could compromise the seal made by the 'O' ring.
 
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